Wood vs composite vs PVC decking — an honest comparison

Comparison table

All costs are installed price per square foot as of early 2026, including framing. Ranges reflect regional variation, deck complexity, and product tier. Decking-board lifespan assumes correct installation and periodic maintenance where applicable.

Pressure-treated pine

Pressure-treated (PT) pine is the default for a reason: it is the cheapest to install, widely available, every deck contractor knows how to work with it, and the framing is almost always PT regardless of what decking material you choose above it. PT lumber is preserved with copper-based compounds (ACQ or MCA) that resist rot and insect damage. The preservative treatment carries a lifetime limited warranty against rot and termite damage from most lumber producers — but not against weathering, checking, or splintering.

The trade-off is maintenance. Untreated PT decking turns gray and checks (surface cracks) within 1–2 seasons without periodic cleaning and sealing. Boards that are not maintained can absorb enough water to warp and split. If you choose PT, budget for a deck cleaner and water-repellent sealer every 1–3 years and expect to replace individual boards within 10–15 years even with good maintenance.

Cedar and redwood

Western red cedar and redwood contain natural tannins that resist decay and insects without chemical treatment. Cedar is lighter than PT pine, dimensionally stable, and takes stain beautifully. Installed costs of $20–45/sq ft reflect both the material premium and the fact that cedar is harvested mainly in the Pacific Northwest and British Columbia, so freight costs vary by region.

Cedar weathers gracefully to a silver-gray if left unsealed — many homeowners prefer the look. If you want to maintain the warm honey color, plan for a penetrating oil or semi-transparent stain every 2–3 years. Cedar is a softer wood than PT pine and will show dents and scratches more readily in high-traffic areas. Lifespan is 15–20 years with reasonable maintenance, shorter in climates with long wet seasons.

Wood-plastic composite (WPC)

Wood-plastic composite boards — sold under brands like Trex, TimberTech, and Fiberon — combine a wood-fiber core with a polyethylene or polypropylene matrix. The better products use a co-extruded PVC cap layer on all four sides, which dramatically reduces moisture infiltration and staining. Installed costs of $30–60/sq ft make composite the most popular premium upgrade from PT wood.

Composite carries 25–50 year stain and fade warranties from major manufacturers. Read the fine print: most warranties cover a specific percentage of color change, not complete discoloration. Mold and mildew resistance varies by product; uncapped composite (older generations) is more susceptible. The practical maintenance is simple — annual cleaning with a composite-safe deck wash and occasional spot treatment for stains from leaf tannins or cooking grease.

Heat is the main complaint. Dark composite boards in direct sun in warm climates can reach surface temperatures uncomfortable for bare feet. Most manufacturers now offer lighter color palettes designed to reduce heat absorption. If your deck gets full afternoon sun in a Southern market, factor this in at selection time.

Cellular PVC

Cellular PVC boards — AZEK is the market leader, with Wolf and Versatex also common — contain no wood fiber. They are manufactured from expanded PVC foam, giving them a consistent cellular structure throughout. Because there is no organic material, they will not absorb water, will not support mold or mildew growth, and will not rot regardless of climate.

At $40–70/sq ft installed, cellular PVC is the highest-priced decking material commonly specified on residential projects. The return is the lowest lifetime maintenance cost of any product in this comparison — no sealing, no staining, no periodic board replacement — combined with 30+ year manufacturer warranties. PVC also machines easily for custom radius edges and curved applications. The heat performance is comparable to composite: lighter colors significantly reduce surface temperature in direct sun.

Tropical hardwood (ipe, cumaru, tigerwood)

Tropical hardwoods are the premium natural option. Ipe (pronounced “ee-pay”) is the most common specification — it is one of the densest commercially available woods, with a Class A fire rating, natural oils that resist decay and insects, and a hardness that makes it nearly impervious to dents and scratches. At $40–80/sq ft installed, it is priced similarly to cellular PVC but with a completely different look and feel.

The maintenance requirement for tropical hardwood is periodic oiling — typically a penetrating hardwood oil every 1–3 years to maintain the rich brown color. Without oiling, ipe weathers to an attractive silver-gray, similar to teak on a sailboat, with no structural consequence. The practical lifespan of 25–40+ years is well-documented in coastal and humid climates where other materials struggle. Sourcing matters: look for FSC-certified ipe to ensure the wood comes from responsibly managed forests.

Frequently asked questions

• Which decking material is cheapest per year of life?
  Cellular PVC and premium composite are the best values on a per-year basis once you account for zero sealing, staining, or board-replacement costs. Pressure-treated pine is cheapest upfront at $15–35/sq ft installed but requires annual or biennial maintenance and board replacement cycles that erode the initial savings. Cedar and redwood land in the middle. Tropical hardwoods like ipe have a strong per-year cost if they reach 30+ years, but the upfront investment of $40–80/sq ft is significant.
• Does composite decking get hot in the sun?
  Yes, more so than wood. Dark-colored composite and cellular PVC boards can reach surface temperatures of 150°F or higher in direct sun in warm climates. Most manufacturers have responded with lighter color palettes and co-extruded cap layers that reduce heat absorption, but composite will always be warmer than untreated wood in the same conditions. If you live in a hot climate and the deck gets afternoon sun, lighter colors and a shade structure are practical mitigations.
• Can I use composite decking for the substructure (joists and beams)?
  No. Composite and PVC decking products are engineered for the surface only — they are not rated for use as structural framing members. The substructure must be pressure-treated lumber (minimum UC4A for above-ground framing, UC4B for ground contact), or steel. Some composite manufacturers specify maximum joist spacing for their boards (often 16 inches on-center for standard boards, 12 inches for certain diagonal installations); always follow the product installation guide.
• What is the difference between wood-plastic composite and cellular PVC?
  Wood-plastic composite (WPC) boards — sold by Trex, TimberTech, and Fiberon — contain a wood-fiber core bonded with polyethylene or polypropylene. The wood fiber gives them a more natural look and feel but also makes them susceptible to staining and mold if the cap layer is breached. Cellular PVC boards (AZEK, Wolf, Versatex) contain no wood fiber at all — they are 100% PVC throughout, with a solid foam-core structure. PVC is impervious to moisture, will not support mold, and is typically warrantied for 30+ years against stain and fade.
• Do I need to seal or stain composite or PVC decking?
  No. Both composite and cellular PVC are sold as low-maintenance specifically because they do not require sealing, staining, or painting. Cleaning with soap and water or a composite-safe deck cleaner is typically all that is required. Applying oil-based stains or sealers to composite decking can void the warranty. Wood decking — pressure-treated, cedar, or tropical hardwood — requires periodic cleaning and sealing to maintain water repellency and slow weathering.